On our way out of the Grand Canyon, we stopped at another significant point along the Colorado River: the Hoover Dam. The design, structure, and construction of the dam are truly remarkable achievements. Comprised of a series of concrete blocks that flex to transmit the weight of the water to the canyon wall, the whole project was completed ahead of schedule, in less than five years.

The tour of the Art Deco facility, designed from the outset to be a point of pride showcasing American ingenuity, was rather disturbing, however. Loudspeakers throughout, from the exhibition hall to the lookout over the dam, ran an Orwellian continuous loop extolling the virtues of the project. Absent were any mention of the (continuing) water wars that preceded the project, or the environmental impact of the modified Colorado river since. Having seen this after going through the Imperial Valley, I am now motivated to once again attempt to read Cadillac Desert (or watch the documentary) to understand the impact that irrigation and dams have had on the settlement and environment of the West.

There isn’t much to write about the Grand Canyon that hasn’t been written before. This wonder of the world took our breath away every step of the long hike down to the bottom (Bright Angel Trail, 9.8 mi) and back (South Kaibab Trail, 6.9 mi).

We spent a night in Phantom Ranch on the bottom of the Canyon, not too far away from the Colorado River. As Knox notes, finally arriving at the Ranch after a full day of hiking was awfully sweet: we had two bunk beds in our own heated cabin, and we arrived just in time for the family-style dinner at the cantina, a quick nap, and a moonlit hike.It was there that we realized how lucky we were to be able to seize somebody’s cancellation at the last minute, since most folks had reserved spots months and even years in advance.

The journey, and particularly the arduous ascent, felt like extreme hiking: walking on the edge of the precipice, with sunlight blinding me and wind gusts throwing me off balance. I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

On our way north from Camp Verde, AZ, we stopped by the ruins at the misnamed Montezuma Castle, a cliff dwelling where the Sinagua Indians lived over 600 years ago.

`

After leaving Carlsbad, we crossed back into Texas, driving through El Paso to get to Las Cruces for the night. The drive through the Guadalupe Mountains was simply breath-taking, and the national park there is well worth a return visit for a few days of backpacking.