Critical Exponent

There isn’t much to write about the Grand Canyon that hasn’t been written before. This wonder of the world took our breath away every step of the long hike down to the bottom (Bright Angel Trail, 9.8 mi) and back (South Kaibab Trail, 6.9 mi).

We spent a night in Phantom Ranch on the bottom of the Canyon, not too far away from the Colorado River. As Knox notes, finally arriving at the Ranch after a full day of hiking was awfully sweet: we had two bunk beds in our own heated cabin, and we arrived just in time for the family-style dinner at the cantina, a quick nap, and a moonlit hike.It was there that we realized how lucky we were to be able to seize somebody’s cancellation at the last minute, since most folks had reserved spots months and even years in advance.

The journey, and particularly the arduous ascent, felt like extreme hiking: walking on the edge of the precipice, with sunlight blinding me and wind gusts throwing me off balance. I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

On our way north from Camp Verde, AZ, we stopped by the ruins at the misnamed Montezuma Castle, a cliff dwelling where the Sinagua Indians lived over 600 years ago.

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